Pomade
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Ingredients overview
Petrolatum, Synthetic Wax, Zinc Oxide, Amyl Cinnamal, Citral, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Limonene, Parfum (Fragrance)
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Highlights
#alcohol-free
Alcohol Free
Key Ingredients
Sunscreen: Zinc Oxide
Other Ingredients
Emollient: Petrolatum, Synthetic Wax
Perfuming: Amyl Cinnamal, Citral, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Limonene, Parfum (Fragrance)
Solvent: Limonene
Viscosity controlling: Synthetic Wax
Skim through
| Ingredient name | what-it-does | irr., com. | ID-Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Petrolatum | emollient | goodie | |
| Synthetic Wax | emollient, viscosity controlling | ||
| Zinc Oxide | sunscreen | 0, 1 | goodie |
| Amyl Cinnamal | perfuming | ||
| Citral | perfuming | icky | |
| Citronellol | perfuming | icky | |
| Geraniol | perfuming | icky | |
| Hydroxycitronellal | perfuming | icky | |
| Linalool | perfuming | icky | |
| Limonene | perfuming, solvent | icky | |
| Parfum (Fragrance) | perfuming | icky |
Black & White Pomade
Ingredients explainedPetrolatum - goodie
Also-called: Petroleum jelly, Vaseline | What-it-does: emollient
The famous Vaseline orPetroleum Jelly. Just like mineral oil, it is also a by-product of refining crude oil, aka petroleum, and it is also a mixture ofhydrocarbons but with bigger (C18-90+) carbon chain length.
The unique thing about petrolatum is that it is the most effective occlusive agent known today. While the occlusivity of mineral oil is in the same league as the occlusivity of plant oils, petrolatum is in a league of its own. It sits on top of the skin and hinders so-called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) like nothingelse.
This comes in handy healing cracked lips or severely dry skin patches, though overdoing it (i.e. reducing TEWL by more than 40%) isnot good as it can create a nice moist place for fungi and bacteria to grow.
As for petrolatum and safety, we can write here pretty much the exact same thing as we have written at mineral oil. There is no evidence whatsoever that cosmetic, USP grade petrolatum is carcinogenic. It also does not absorb into the skinbut sits on top of it and that in itself greatly minimises health risks. It also has a long history of safe use, as it was first used as a skincare product more than 100 years ago, in 1872to be precise.
It is also non-comedogenic, though its pure form is very heavy and greasy so combination and oily skin typesmight want to avoid it anyway.
Overall, it is the gold-standard occlusive agent known today and a tub of Vaseline comes in handy in any household to heal cracked lips or other severely dry skin patches.
Synthetic Wax
What-it-does: emollient, viscosity controlling
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Zinc Oxide - goodie
What-it-does: sunscreen | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 1
When it comes to sunscreen agents, Zinc Oxide ispretty much in aleague of its own. It's a physical (or inorganic) sunscreenthat has a lot in common with fellow inorganic sunscreen Titanium Dioxide(TiO2) but a couple of things make it superior even toTiO2.
If physical sunscreensdon't tell you anything, go ahead and read about the basics here. Most of what we wrote about Titanium Dioxideis also true for Zinc Oxide so we will focus here on the differences.
The first main difference is that while TiO2 gives a nice broad spectrum protection, Zinc Oxide has an even nicerand even broader spectrum protection. It protects against UVB, UVA II, and UVA I almost uniformly, and is considered to be the broadestrange sunscreen available today.
It'salso highly stableand non-irritating. So much sothat Zinc Oxide also counts as a skin protectant and anti-irritant. It's also often used to treat skin irritationssuch as diaper rash.
As for the disadvantages, Zinc Oxide is also not cosmetically elegant. Itleaves a disturbing whitish tint on the skin, although, according toa2000research paper by Dr. Pinnell, it's slightlyless white than TiO2. Still, it's white and disturbing enough to use Zinc Oxide nanoparticles more and more often.
We wrote more about nanoparticles and the concerns around them here, but the gist is that if nanoparticles were absorbed into the skin that would be a reason for legitimate health concerns. But luckily, so far research shows thatsunscreen nanoparticles are not absorbedbut remain on the surface of the skin or in the uppermost (dead) layer of the skin. This seems to be true even if the skin is damaged, for example, sunburnt.
All in all, if you've found a Zinc Oxide sunscreen that you are happy to use every single day, that's fantastic and we suggest you stick with it. It's definitely one of the best, or probably even the best option out there for sun protection available worldwide.
Amyl Cinnamal
What-it-does: perfuming
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Citral - icky
What-it-does: perfuming
It’s a common fragrance ingredient that smells like lemon and has a bittersweet taste. It can be found in many plant oils, e.g. lemon, orange, lime or lemongrass.
It’s one of the “EU 26 fragrances” that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term “fragrance/perfume” on the label) because of allergen potential. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive.
Citronellol - icky
What-it-does: perfuming
Citronellol is a very common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like odor. In the UK, it’s actually the third most often listed perfume on the ingredient lists.
It can be naturally found in geranium oil (about 30%) or rose oil (about 25%).
As with all fragrance ingredients, citronellol can also cause allergic contact dermatitis and should be avoided if you have perfume allergy. In a 2001 worldwide study with 178 people with known sensitization to fragrances citronellol tested positive in 5.6% of the cases.
There is no known anti-aging or positive skin benefits of the ingredient. It’s in our products to make it smell nice.
Geraniol - icky
What-it-does: perfuming
Geraniol is a common fragrance ingredient. It smells like rose and can be found in rose oil or in small quantities in geranium, lemon and many other essential oils.
Just like other similar fragrance ingredients (like linalool and limonene) geraniol also oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. Best to avoid if you have sensitive skin.
Hydroxycitronellal - icky
What-it-does: perfuming
A common fragrance ingredient that has a sweet scent somewhere between lily and fruity melon. Can be found in essential oils, such as lavenderoil, orange flower oil or ylang-ylang.
In cosmetics, it can be used up to 1%. It’s one of the “EU 26 fragrances” that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term “fragrance/perfume” on the label) because of allergen potential. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive.
Linalool - icky
What-it-does: perfuming, deodorant
Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. It’s kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. It’s part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market.
The problem with linalool is, that just like limoneneit oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. That’s why a product containing linalool that has been opened for several months is more likely to be allergenic than a fresh one.
A study made in the UK with 483 people tested the allergic reaction to 3% oxidised linalool and 2.3% had positive test results.
Limonene - icky
What-it-does: perfuming, solvent, deodorant
A supercommon and cheap fragrance ingredient. It's in many plants, e.g. rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass, peppermint and it's the main component (about 50-90%) of the peel oil of citrus fruits.
It does smellnice but the problemis that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. Oxidizedlimonene cancause allergic contact dermatitis and counts asa frequent skin sensitizer.
Limonene's nr1 function is definitely being a fragrance component, but there are several studies showing that it's also a penetration enhancer, mainly for oil-loving components.
All in all, limonene has some pros and cons, but - especially if your skin is sensitive -the cons probably outweigh the pros.
Parfum (Fragrance) - icky
Also-called: Fragrance, Parfum;Parfum/Fragrance | What-it-does: perfuming
Exactly what it sounds: nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. Fragrance in the US and parfum in the EU is a generic term on the ingredient list that is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average (but it can have as much as 200 components!).
If you are someone who likes to know what you put on your face then fragrance is not your best friend - there's no way to know what’s really in it.
Also, if your skin is sensitive, fragrance is again not your best friend. It’s the number one cause of contact allergy to cosmetics. It’s definitely a smart thing to avoid with sensitive skin (and fragrance of any type - natural is just as allergic as synthetic, if not worse!).
You may also want to take a look at...
The famous Vaseline orPetroleum Jelly. Just like mineral oil, it is also a by-product of refining crude oil, aka petroleum, and it is also a mixture ofhydrocarbons but with bigger (C18-90+) carbon chain length.The unique thing about petrolatum is that it is the most effective occlusive agent known today. [more] A physical/inorganic sunscreen with the broadest spectrum (UVB and UVA II, less good at UVA I) protection available today. It also has good stability and also works as a skin protectant, anti-irritant. Might leave some whitish tint on the skin, though. [more] A common fragrance ingredient that smells like lemon. [more] A common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like smell. [more] A common fragrance ingredient that smells like rose and can be found in rose oil. [more] A fragrance with a sweet scent somewhere between lily and fruity melon. [more] A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. The downside of it is that it oxidises on air exposure and might become allergenic. [more] A supercommon fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. It autoxidizes on air exposure and counts as a common skin sensitizer. [more] The generic term for nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. It is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average. [more] what‑it‑does emollient what‑it‑does emollient | viscosity controlling what‑it‑does sunscreen irritancy,com. 0, 1 what‑it‑does perfuming what‑it‑does perfuming what‑it‑does perfuming what‑it‑does perfuming what‑it‑does perfuming what‑it‑does perfuming what‑it‑does perfuming | solvent what‑it‑does perfuming
